After today's adventures I now have yet another momento...my 60 Euro cent receipt for use of a public "water closet", i.e. toilette, toiletta, bathroom. Granted it was spotlessly clean without graffiti and had a "guard" who ensured you neither snuck in nor stayed too long (really!) and of course, collected the money. I was dumbfounded to say the least but since you will not get into a ristorante, trattoria, bar, pizzeria, or cafe without paying and even a glass of bottled water is nearly 2.50, it was well worth it. We have also discovered that 90% of the doors open in, not out. The only one we have found which opened out had a sign that read "push" and another under which read "pull". Take your choice? Also, the hot water is on the right and cold on the left over here, not a major problem once you get used to the idea (in time to return to the states?). Our last major discovery is that Italians are lovely folk but some are scoundruls....in Rome a man dressed as a gladiator saw me taking a picture of Bridget and graciously offered to take one of both of us. That happens all the time at home so, why not? Then his "buddy" stepped in with us, handing us his gladiator swords as props. Why not play along. After two or three pics I thanked them and we turned to leave at which point he stepped in front of me and told me it was 10 Euros, that this was their work. I couldn't believe it and told him I refused to be scammed. We argued and Bridget reached into her wallet. I told her to PUT IT AWAY! He then said, "OK, 5 Euro". I still refused but saw Bridget was becoming embarrassed so I gave him 5 and told him he was disgusting and should be reported to the Polizia! I later learned they were not allowed to do this but got by with it all the time. The girl telling me this said I got off cheap.
So, today....what an experience. We began the morning heading out for our 10:30 appointment at the Ufizzi Gallery, reported housing Italy's finest collections from the Medici family as well as others. Thinking we could walk to it in about 20 minutes (everyone here says everything is a mere 20 minutes away), we set off at 10:00 only to not be there when we realized it was 10:30. I told Bridget how unhappy I would be after spending the money as well as the opportunity to view the artwork if they wouldn't allow us in. During this time we were crossing at Plaza San Marcos where Bridget went to one side and I the other. Following towards her I stepped off the curb without looking and nearly was run over by 3 fast moving city buses! The poor young men behind me yelled "Oh no!" and Bridget turned, thinking I was gone. Got my heart racing, to say the least. I'm sure you heard the bus horns across the Atlantic! Not to worry, 10 minutes later we were there and walking in. We went through security, stood in line, handed in our tickets and proceeded on our way when I felt a hand on my shoulder. Bridget looked at me and said "Grandma, he wants you to follow him". A security guard was directing me through a roped area and pointing. I eventually just walked in the direction he pointed and found a coat check counter; I was not allowed to wear my backpack. They couldn't have said that when I picked it up at security and put it back on?
At any rate, the exhibits were breathtaking. We saw works of Michaelangelo, Botticelli, Dante, and many more. There were incredible marble busts and lifesized sculptures. Midway I went into the cafeteria (food counter with some tables) for a cup of coffee and was asked "Will you sit or stand?" Apparently it costs more to sit down and drink even though you pick it up and carry it yourself. I stood. After awhile Bridget joined me and we finished our tour. We then left for our unplanned day (we had arranged for "no arrangements"). We walked, talked with shopkeepers, found a few great "must haves" and then got directions for a small cafe which supposedly served the best soup. As today was raining, that sounded marvelous. Who knows? We followed her directions but never found the cafe. We eventually found one we liked and had a lovely lunch of, again, Bruschetta with tomatoes and pizza and red wine. Tasty but becoming old fare. Eventually Bridget was really tired and we were within a straight shot of the hotel so I sent her back with a promise to return before dark myself. It gave us each a little time; I browsed some shops and found some more Muskatta wine for Doug, bought a few snacks and some water, and headed back. As I stopped to get my bearings I took my map from my backpack only to discover it said "Roma" in big letters; I had my tour map from Rome, not Florence! For the first time I couldn't locate a police officer so asked a shopkeeper who pointed me "straight up this road"; it turned out to be wrong but got me in the general location of Liberty Plaza which is our landmark. All in all a long day but good...oh, and as I returned to the hotel I asked if I might get a coffee from the kitchen. When the young man offered to bring it to the room I declined and said I didn't want to put him to any trouble. "Oh no, madam, that is all right. The price is the same regardless"! All this time I thought they were being considerate and bringing us complimentary coffee and cappachino. Can't wait to see that charge when we check out.
I came into the room, found Bridget safely sleeping, and when she awakened all was well with the world....I had brought her good Italian chocolate for a treat.

Good night to all. Tomorrow is horseback riding in Chianti; we meet our bus at the train station at 9:30...I called today to confirm our reservation and when I asked what the bus would look like since many line up where we are to meet, the lady said "A bus"; I asked what color and she then said "Well, it's really a white mini van". Ok, and what is written on this white mini van "Nothing", she replied "but don't worry because the lane will be blocked off (wasn't yesterday) and the man will be on the sidewalk". Since we were not asked to email our pictures I bravely asked "How will I recognize him? Will he be carrying a sign of any kind"? "No, but he will know you". This can only be interesting. Wish us luck and pray it doesn't rain.

Still wishing each of you were here to share in this venture!

Our day to visit Rome arrived, warm and pleasant. The fact that both trains were delayed and it was raining when we returned did little to diminish the joy of our adventure. We navigated to our departing train this morning and had a lovely 1 1/2 hour ride to Rome. This was Bridget's first train ride, making it even more exciting. We had reserved another "hop on/hop off" excursion and it was a good thing..I had NO IDEA the time needed to really experience Rome. After today I can believe one would need a month just to truly take in the "high" points, let alone all of the small tucked away adventures. Our 6 hours left us with a "to do " list half completed. On the train ride we used the map and our tour book to decide which stops we wanted to get off at; in Rome another bus comes every 15 minutes and I can understand why. We visited beautiful piazzas and various remnants of the past...which we'll share when we upload the pictures. Our plan was to spend the first 3 hours in antique Rome, drop over and see a sight or two in "ancient Rome" (old Rome) and then take a bus to the Vatican just to see the outside of the buildings and the Sistine Chapel. We truly wanted to visit the Sistine Chapel but learned it would take about 5 hours minimum. Well, as they say, the best laid plans and all that......We hopped off and on in the first hour and then got off at the Colesium and that was about that. Words do not begin to describe the awe one feels as he walks thru these ruins. We met a guide originally from New York and she gave us a few pointers about seeing the other ruins in the area, only she didn't clarify which direction we should head out in. Let me just say that Bridget and I toured some grounds and a large church not on any tour map. After walking an hour and realizing we were no where near the ruins of the ancients nor the circus maximus, we rounded a hill and saw the gate we should have gone through. We had walked at least 2 miles out of our way! No problem other than it cut into our carefully planned day. After we cross four lanes of traffic (Did I mention in Italy the crossing signals are more for show; you simply hold up your hands, close your eyes, pray, make the sign of the cross if Catholic, and step into traffic. They generally stop without honking a horn even!) we entered and completed our tour. We then caught the next bus and rode awhile taking in more sights. Our next stop was Trevi Fountain. Shall I sing "3 Coins in the Fountain"? There were more tourists here than in any one small area thus far. Yes, we have pics of tossing coins over our shoulders in hope we'll return. From here we intended to hurry over to old Rome and see the Parthenon but only had 30 minutes so we settled for Gilatto and window shopping until it was time for the bus. We were lucky for the 15 minute ride to the train station took nearly 30 minutes with the traffic.
Once our returning train finally arrived and we made it back we found a quasi-English speaking ticket agent or told us which bus would deposit us closest to our hotel, bought our tickets, and boarded. We then discovered our driver didn't know a word of English but luckily a young Italian lady overheard me trying to communicate with him and explained where our stop would be. Once we left the bus we found a small trattatoria (they don't open here until 7:00 p.m.) and had some incredible lasagna and red house wine. Bridget is now downstairs reading and I'm about to sort through from today and prepare for tomorrow. Bridget told me she believes if you've seen one antique church you've seen enough so there isn't any need to get up early and visit the one we planned before we go to the Ufizzi museum at 10:30.
Friday is horseback riding in Chianti and Saturday is a bus trip to Sienna....

more to come.
wish you were all here.

Oh, and in defense of Rome, it did not smell, it was not dirty, the people were not hateful, and no one attempted to steal our purses....all per Bridget!

The trip thus far has been amazing. Florence, as I have said, is filled with spendor, antiquity, lovely folk, and a charm that defies description. Very few people have been less than a joy and I would suspect they were tourists! We have viewed century old buildings, charming churches, ruins, and links to famous artists of the past. What I am finding irritating is that I miss my coffee and I would like a choice of something to eat other than pasta, bruschetta, or pizza, as good as they may be. We have learned the way to the hotel or the corrected way if lost. We now can find the train station while still half asleep. We've learned enough Italian to ask for the "toilette" or water closet and to point on the map while looking pitiful. I truly believe I've met every police officer within 6 blocks of our hotel as they stand in the middle of the streets "just in case", making them optimum information stands. We are worn out; our feet haven't hurt but they have been tired. I walked more than Bridget without complaining yesterday but she bounced back easier this morning.
Can't wait to share the pictures; my camcorder finally died today. The mouse also forgot to remind me to bring the charger for it!

Happily dressed in clean clothing we headed out today after a long, hard sleep. Being the seasoned travelers we are we found our way directly to the train station where I intended to purchase the train tickets for Rome in advance. Forget that, all the people not driving like maniacs on the roadway were in line at the ticket counter. Bridget attempted to help by using the automated ticketing machine but I was afraid we'd make an error and be stuck with it so we decided to wait until we returned in the afternoon. It was a cool day so to the top of the double-decker bus we climbed only to eventually scurry back down once the bus sped up the hills. We passed a house where Doystecvesky (I know I butchered the spelling) used to vacation; one designed by Michaelangelo, and numerous other former monasteries and villas. The views were spectacular! We passed vineyards, fruit orchards, flower beds being groomed, and small forests. We traveled through time and history, a cemetary, ancient walls, and streets designed hundreds of years ago while Florence was still the capital of Italy. After finishing our driving tour we left the bus and began walking to the three sights we had earmarked for today. One closed two hours earlier, one had a 2 hour wait for the next tour, and I honestly don't recall what happened with regards to the third. I bought advance tickets for the Uffizi museum and off we went to window shop. We had a lovely chat with a pottery maker and bought a trinket or two from him; we then visited a wine shop where I purchased a bottle of Muskatto wine from a former Chicagoan now married 40 years to an Italian vintner. All in all it was a very long but enjoyable day.
Tomorrow we head for ROMA!!!

Just added a post to share the good news but it didn't load; they just advised our luggage, which the airlines insisted was not lost but only misplaced, had been located. It should be here this evening if it made it to the airport early enough or first thing tomorrow. We cannot wait! At least tomorrow's adventure will be with a fresh start.

Wish you were all here to join us!

Day 2 - and our first day as actual tourists...
Rather than walk to the train station we opted to board our tour bus at the closest stop on the route. Having been unsuccessful at reaching anyone at our European contact number, we took off for what the hotel assured me was a mere 10 minute walk. Either they walk fast or know some shortcuts for about 30 minutes later we located San Marco square and waited for the bus...and waited...and waited. I then attempted to use a public phone but when I selected "help" all the instructions were in Italian! We gave up and decided to then walk to the train station where we happened to finally find our red two-storied bus. Off on the tour which was short and quick but informative and enjoyable. We also discovered we can use the pass again tomorrow and take tour B which goes into the surrounding countryside. We have met some lovely locals, seen breathtaking sights, and marveled at the blending of 700 year old history with modern updates into one of the most magical cities I have ever visited. EVERYTHING I read in preparation of this trip has proven true and we are only on our second day. We've done a small bit of shopping, a great deal of looking, and gawked as only tourists can. We've been inside churches, in outdoor markets, seen the only surviving bridge of WWII, and petted every dog on a leash I encountered! Bridget has mastered many Italian phrases and is our self-appointed tour guide. Now, if she could just slow down for her grandmamma!
We ate lunch (our main meal of choice on the trip) at a tiny pizzeria in one of the MANY squares (piazzas) we found today. Again it was incredible. A single serving pizza on a paper thin crust with vegetables, light cheese, and a skimming of an amazing tomato sauce. I helped Bridget with her's.....definitely not a single serving. The portions are huge over here so we have shared each of our two meals.
My only regret is my coffee; I miss it. A cup of "American coffee" is served in a tea cup of sorts, half full, lukewarm, and at an average cost of 2.25 Euro or nearly $3.00. I buy one a day and fill up at breakfast. Here Cappachino is Italian coffee and not what it is in the States; the hotel graciously delivers us each one each evening as we return.

Tomorrow we are off for another tour and then some museum visits...and most likely a bit more shopping.

Sunday evening we ventured out to find a local spot for dinner. Apparently the Italians do not come alive until after the sun sets and then eat late. While searching the surrounding neighborhoods we stumbled upon what appeared to be a festival. Happily saundering across the lawns towards the tents we were discussing the possibilities for dinner when Bridget stopped and doubled over in laughter...wait until you see the pics....it was actually a large series of tents with baloons and booths set up for a "kinder" party....! Needless to say we turned and left before anyone asked what we were up to.
Leaving there we crossed a bridge and found an ice skating rink! Bridget tried but I refused to don skates, fearing I'd fall and break something. I did agree to return our last night so, should I injure myself, I could rest on the flights home. We managed to ask those in charge, in our very broken Italian, if they would still be open next weekend. Ah shucks, they will be gone by then!
We did discover the small restaurant where we had a lovely meal and then walked back for an early night. I was amazed to learn tipping is not customary in Italy and is not expected either...this at the advice of our dinner server.

By 9:00 p.m. we were both asleep with a 7:00 a.m. wake up call requested.