Sunday, March 7, 2010

Customs was a breeze and we retrieved our luggage only to find we could not turn it back in at the transfer desk since our next flight wasn't until the next day. We hurried to the airport shuttle for a trip to US Air to request we move our next flight up as there were still seats available. Apparently if you purchase a travel package ticket for International flights you are not allowed to change to an earlier flight, even if there are seats and you are willing to pay a REASONABLE fee. According to the ticket attendant our tickets did not have a value and she therefore could not determine what my fee to change would be. This left us with a 12 hour layover. With that in mind I suggested we do some sight seeing as it was only 6 p.m.; all tours stop in Boston at 4:00 according to the internet. Let's get a room nearby and a good nights sleep; minimum of $200.00 within shuttle distance of the airport. OK, we have cards and the PA system touts a wonderful airport mall; we were not allowed thru security without boarding passes which we could not get until we checked in TOMORROW (3:00 a.m. when counters reopen). Let's have a nice last dinner...our choices on the front side of security were Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks, or some cafe with sandwiches at 12.95....at least the good old American tap water with lemon was complimentary and our waitress was sweet. After I talked a table full of young men into competing to see who could uncap Bridget's water bottle (sealed from the flight) we headed off to find a resting spot. The next 5 or 6 hours were spent sleeping on the carpeting (don't think they use padding) in a corner surrounded by our suitcases. We are still here, waiting for the 3:00 a.m. wake-up so we can progress through to the other side of the terminal for our 6:00 a.m. flight to Charlotte. I told Bridget to look upon it as just another adventure. I didn't catch the 12 hour layover when I selected the flight itinerary; I was looking for the departure and arrival times we needed and attributed the timing to the 6-hour time difference. We shall survive and are now closer to home.
Talk with you one last time and then shall upload pics! It was great but sitting on American soil, even on this hard-as-nails carpeting, is the best...I shan't tell Bridget of the mouse I saw scurrying across in front of us while she slept. I kept watch.
And so it began, our trip home. The walk to the bus was without event; Bridget is actually able to walk while still asleep! The busride to the airport was quick; we passed the new "palace" being constructed - another "wait until you see it picture" to follow. Very modern, very large, very beautiful. There was a momentary panic when we were told all smaller planes were being delayed due to high winds. On a 4-leg trip such as our's timing is crucial for connections - UNLESS...more to follow. At any rate, our plane must have fallen into the not-so-small category as we were able to board and take up without incident if only a few moments late. From Florence we flew to Munich and I shall never forget my astonishment when I looked out the window and saw the Alps for the first time. Words cannot begin to describe their majesty! They were beautiful, snow-laden, impressive, and HUGE. Photographs in books and on postcards do not do them justice. I hope my pics will give a hint of their absolute beauty. By the way, American airlines should take lessons from the Europeans...beer, wine, and real food served around the clock on each flight.
In Munich we boarded for our flight to Boston's Logan Field. Bridget was pleased to discover we were seated in the emergency row (I always request this seating for leg room, even for my short legs.) as this was to be an 8-hour flight. Again, wonderful food, wine, and attention. We had a good supply of movies and music and plenty of room. The fun began when we arrived at Logan.

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Today was Siena, another charming part of Tuscany filled with shops, history, CHURCHES, museums, and sweet people. We took the express bus and a little over an hour later arrived near the plaza which is the center focus of the town. On the way we visited with a Canadian lady who, after seeing Under the Tuscan Sun six times and buying the movie, sold everything and moved here in January! Like I said, I can believe it and another time would have been tempted to do the same but no longer. A kind gentleman with a little dog in tow led us to the town square and from there we visited the Duomno and did some sightseeing. Of course we visited nearly every small shop along the way. Visiting with the older shopkeepers is always interesting; many speak a bit of broken English and with the hand signs and pointing, sales are made. We found Mac, Evan, and Brandon's gifts and Bridget steered me away from some ideas I had for Scott. (Bart Simpson T-shirt where he is depicted as the Blues Brothers.) We then dined for lunch on the square and had, without a doubt, the second most wonderful meal. We actually found a "bar" as they are called (cafe al fresco) that offered salad. Bridget had, of course, Brunschetta with tomatoes (marvelous, crisp with a garlic spread and toasted) along with an interesting soup that she loved...bread such as in French Onion soup, a beef broth, vegetables, beans, and ???. I had (after stealing a slice of Brunschetta) the best salad with oil and vinegar dressing, sliced apples, and walnuts on a bed of lettuce with Roma tomatoes....Marvelous...Bellisimo! No room for desert but I did enjoy the best coffee since arriving here.
We then headed back towards the bus station, shopping along the way again, but this time only window shopping. The return bus was not an express so we were able to view the countryside. In Italy all the land serves a purpose and actually resembles a patchwork quilt when you view it. There are vineyards, wooded areas left to rest for a season, gardens, etc.; many are surrounded by more Cyprus trees than I have ever seen. I was told Italy is the land of Cyprus trees and you'll find many lining the roadsides. Today I saw small farms with elderly workers in the fields and small groups working in vineyards.
Also, Saturday must be laundry day. I can't wait to post the pictures of freshly washed clothes hanging off banisters, out windows, and on make-shift clothes lines! It looked like a scene from a movie. All the way back to Florence I took photos of the Italian people just "being"...they are a lovely bunch for certain.
We finished the day walking back to the hotel via the outdoor markets which line the narrow streets in front of the shops. Many of the stands are merely an extension of the actual shop. We returned to Bridget's favorite leather shop and she picked her gift....her trip gift, her next birthday gift, and her next Christmas gift all in one. I also finished my shopping for family and friends. We have visited this shop a number of times and were befriended by the young Romanian woman working there. It was great fun shopping, laughing, and telling stories. While there a young man approached us and began talking with Bridget. We learned he was there on vacation with his father and that he is a med student at USC in Columbia, S.C. Small world.

And so, we are off to sleep as we have an early wake-up call and walk to the terminal for our return flight.

Be safe and we can't wait to see and talk with all of you!

Friday, March 5, 2010

Today was our horseback riding adventure in Chianti and what an adventure it was! The morning started off a bit rough when I came back up from my morning coffee (or a reasonable facsimile thereof) and juice to find Bridget still asleep. She didn't hear the wake up call (which she insists never happened) and had about 25 minutes before we needed to leave to walk to the station. I give her credit. Never has a teenager freshened up, dressed, eaten breakfast, and come out smiling, ready to face a freezing, dreary, damp morning walk.
We made it to the terminal, remembering to turn "at the only stoplight" this time in record time and had nearly 30 minutes to stand and wait. When a young man approached me and said "Come with me" I was astounded. I questioned him and he seemed surprised that I did. "That's my granddaughter" and I need to feel assured before we go anywhere. All in all, it was the mini van to the Chianti region and we had a wonderful tour guide, Francesco. Off to the beautiful countryside.

We had coffee while our horses were brought out and then saddled up for a 2-hour ride through the vineyards and surrounding countryside. We got to pet the friendly barn cat who rubbed your hand if you stopped as well as the three dogs, two of which were old and plump German Shepherds that rolled over on their bellies just like my Lacey when they wanted a scratch. Yes, I took pictures. It was a traditional trail ride with Bridget (having ridden before and recently) second in line behind the owner (I am always number 1!) and I being in last position so I might keep them moving, as he put it and being that I had ridden for the most years of the group next to him. Bridget rode Nadia and I rode Felau. It was lovely.
Following the ride and some wine in front of a wood fire (wait until you see the pics of "grandma")we headed off for lunch. And what a lunch!
We drove to a family home amidst the vineyards and near a beautiful lake - forget the swimming it was rainy and cold and WINDY - went in and waited while they lit the fire for us. Our meal began with a glass of white wine (Did you know that white wine is to be served in smaller "champagne" style glasses and not full bulb styles reserved for red?) and an appetizer of small dough squares filled with bits of sausage and cheese. Incredible! Wish I could remember the name. We then had, in addition to the bottles of water provided, a plate of polenta with various dipping sauces. All my life I thought I didn't like polenta; was I ever wrong. Yummy again.
Next we were served a wonderful red wine with the main course of pasta in a garlic/ricotta cheese sauce - again too incredible for my words! By now, with a mere tasting of each course (and don't forget the chunks of hard-crusted bread - eat your heart out Potter! - served in small brown paper bags..too cute) on the table, I was dying. How do all these people eat and eat and not take a nap? What is served next but the most delicious desert I have ever experienced. A very light pastry rolled and filled with some type of fruit filling and drizzled with a warm caramel and cream. OMG
We visited awhile, took pictures, kissed everyone on the cheek good bye, hugged, took pictures of another grandmother making homemade pasta, and headed for the ancient castle ruins.
We toured, took more pictures, bought some incredible desert wine and the required bread to eat with it (referred to as Heavenly wine) and headed back to Florence. We exchanged Facebook names with our new friends and Bridget made plans to return, stay in a hostel as the Austrailian girls did, and connect again with everyone.
We both agreed that, although the trip has been amazing, this was the best day yet.

Thursday, March 4, 2010

After today's adventures I now have yet another momento...my 60 Euro cent receipt for use of a public "water closet", i.e. toilette, toiletta, bathroom. Granted it was spotlessly clean without graffiti and had a "guard" who ensured you neither snuck in nor stayed too long (really!) and of course, collected the money. I was dumbfounded to say the least but since you will not get into a ristorante, trattoria, bar, pizzeria, or cafe without paying and even a glass of bottled water is nearly 2.50, it was well worth it. We have also discovered that 90% of the doors open in, not out. The only one we have found which opened out had a sign that read "push" and another under which read "pull". Take your choice? Also, the hot water is on the right and cold on the left over here, not a major problem once you get used to the idea (in time to return to the states?). Our last major discovery is that Italians are lovely folk but some are scoundruls....in Rome a man dressed as a gladiator saw me taking a picture of Bridget and graciously offered to take one of both of us. That happens all the time at home so, why not? Then his "buddy" stepped in with us, handing us his gladiator swords as props. Why not play along. After two or three pics I thanked them and we turned to leave at which point he stepped in front of me and told me it was 10 Euros, that this was their work. I couldn't believe it and told him I refused to be scammed. We argued and Bridget reached into her wallet. I told her to PUT IT AWAY! He then said, "OK, 5 Euro". I still refused but saw Bridget was becoming embarrassed so I gave him 5 and told him he was disgusting and should be reported to the Polizia! I later learned they were not allowed to do this but got by with it all the time. The girl telling me this said I got off cheap.
So, today....what an experience. We began the morning heading out for our 10:30 appointment at the Ufizzi Gallery, reported housing Italy's finest collections from the Medici family as well as others. Thinking we could walk to it in about 20 minutes (everyone here says everything is a mere 20 minutes away), we set off at 10:00 only to not be there when we realized it was 10:30. I told Bridget how unhappy I would be after spending the money as well as the opportunity to view the artwork if they wouldn't allow us in. During this time we were crossing at Plaza San Marcos where Bridget went to one side and I the other. Following towards her I stepped off the curb without looking and nearly was run over by 3 fast moving city buses! The poor young men behind me yelled "Oh no!" and Bridget turned, thinking I was gone. Got my heart racing, to say the least. I'm sure you heard the bus horns across the Atlantic! Not to worry, 10 minutes later we were there and walking in. We went through security, stood in line, handed in our tickets and proceeded on our way when I felt a hand on my shoulder. Bridget looked at me and said "Grandma, he wants you to follow him". A security guard was directing me through a roped area and pointing. I eventually just walked in the direction he pointed and found a coat check counter; I was not allowed to wear my backpack. They couldn't have said that when I picked it up at security and put it back on?
At any rate, the exhibits were breathtaking. We saw works of Michaelangelo, Botticelli, Dante, and many more. There were incredible marble busts and lifesized sculptures. Midway I went into the cafeteria (food counter with some tables) for a cup of coffee and was asked "Will you sit or stand?" Apparently it costs more to sit down and drink even though you pick it up and carry it yourself. I stood. After awhile Bridget joined me and we finished our tour. We then left for our unplanned day (we had arranged for "no arrangements"). We walked, talked with shopkeepers, found a few great "must haves" and then got directions for a small cafe which supposedly served the best soup. As today was raining, that sounded marvelous. Who knows? We followed her directions but never found the cafe. We eventually found one we liked and had a lovely lunch of, again, Bruschetta with tomatoes and pizza and red wine. Tasty but becoming old fare. Eventually Bridget was really tired and we were within a straight shot of the hotel so I sent her back with a promise to return before dark myself. It gave us each a little time; I browsed some shops and found some more Muskatta wine for Doug, bought a few snacks and some water, and headed back. As I stopped to get my bearings I took my map from my backpack only to discover it said "Roma" in big letters; I had my tour map from Rome, not Florence! For the first time I couldn't locate a police officer so asked a shopkeeper who pointed me "straight up this road"; it turned out to be wrong but got me in the general location of Liberty Plaza which is our landmark. All in all a long day but good...oh, and as I returned to the hotel I asked if I might get a coffee from the kitchen. When the young man offered to bring it to the room I declined and said I didn't want to put him to any trouble. "Oh no, madam, that is all right. The price is the same regardless"! All this time I thought they were being considerate and bringing us complimentary coffee and cappachino. Can't wait to see that charge when we check out.
I came into the room, found Bridget safely sleeping, and when she awakened all was well with the world....I had brought her good Italian chocolate for a treat.

Good night to all. Tomorrow is horseback riding in Chianti; we meet our bus at the train station at 9:30...I called today to confirm our reservation and when I asked what the bus would look like since many line up where we are to meet, the lady said "A bus"; I asked what color and she then said "Well, it's really a white mini van". Ok, and what is written on this white mini van "Nothing", she replied "but don't worry because the lane will be blocked off (wasn't yesterday) and the man will be on the sidewalk". Since we were not asked to email our pictures I bravely asked "How will I recognize him? Will he be carrying a sign of any kind"? "No, but he will know you". This can only be interesting. Wish us luck and pray it doesn't rain.

Still wishing each of you were here to share in this venture!

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Our day to visit Rome arrived, warm and pleasant. The fact that both trains were delayed and it was raining when we returned did little to diminish the joy of our adventure. We navigated to our departing train this morning and had a lovely 1 1/2 hour ride to Rome. This was Bridget's first train ride, making it even more exciting. We had reserved another "hop on/hop off" excursion and it was a good thing..I had NO IDEA the time needed to really experience Rome. After today I can believe one would need a month just to truly take in the "high" points, let alone all of the small tucked away adventures. Our 6 hours left us with a "to do " list half completed. On the train ride we used the map and our tour book to decide which stops we wanted to get off at; in Rome another bus comes every 15 minutes and I can understand why. We visited beautiful piazzas and various remnants of the past...which we'll share when we upload the pictures. Our plan was to spend the first 3 hours in antique Rome, drop over and see a sight or two in "ancient Rome" (old Rome) and then take a bus to the Vatican just to see the outside of the buildings and the Sistine Chapel. We truly wanted to visit the Sistine Chapel but learned it would take about 5 hours minimum. Well, as they say, the best laid plans and all that......We hopped off and on in the first hour and then got off at the Colesium and that was about that. Words do not begin to describe the awe one feels as he walks thru these ruins. We met a guide originally from New York and she gave us a few pointers about seeing the other ruins in the area, only she didn't clarify which direction we should head out in. Let me just say that Bridget and I toured some grounds and a large church not on any tour map. After walking an hour and realizing we were no where near the ruins of the ancients nor the circus maximus, we rounded a hill and saw the gate we should have gone through. We had walked at least 2 miles out of our way! No problem other than it cut into our carefully planned day. After we cross four lanes of traffic (Did I mention in Italy the crossing signals are more for show; you simply hold up your hands, close your eyes, pray, make the sign of the cross if Catholic, and step into traffic. They generally stop without honking a horn even!) we entered and completed our tour. We then caught the next bus and rode awhile taking in more sights. Our next stop was Trevi Fountain. Shall I sing "3 Coins in the Fountain"? There were more tourists here than in any one small area thus far. Yes, we have pics of tossing coins over our shoulders in hope we'll return. From here we intended to hurry over to old Rome and see the Parthenon but only had 30 minutes so we settled for Gilatto and window shopping until it was time for the bus. We were lucky for the 15 minute ride to the train station took nearly 30 minutes with the traffic.
Once our returning train finally arrived and we made it back we found a quasi-English speaking ticket agent or told us which bus would deposit us closest to our hotel, bought our tickets, and boarded. We then discovered our driver didn't know a word of English but luckily a young Italian lady overheard me trying to communicate with him and explained where our stop would be. Once we left the bus we found a small trattatoria (they don't open here until 7:00 p.m.) and had some incredible lasagna and red house wine. Bridget is now downstairs reading and I'm about to sort through from today and prepare for tomorrow. Bridget told me she believes if you've seen one antique church you've seen enough so there isn't any need to get up early and visit the one we planned before we go to the Ufizzi museum at 10:30.
Friday is horseback riding in Chianti and Saturday is a bus trip to Sienna....

more to come.
wish you were all here.

Oh, and in defense of Rome, it did not smell, it was not dirty, the people were not hateful, and no one attempted to steal our purses....all per Bridget!
The trip thus far has been amazing. Florence, as I have said, is filled with spendor, antiquity, lovely folk, and a charm that defies description. Very few people have been less than a joy and I would suspect they were tourists! We have viewed century old buildings, charming churches, ruins, and links to famous artists of the past. What I am finding irritating is that I miss my coffee and I would like a choice of something to eat other than pasta, bruschetta, or pizza, as good as they may be. We have learned the way to the hotel or the corrected way if lost. We now can find the train station while still half asleep. We've learned enough Italian to ask for the "toilette" or water closet and to point on the map while looking pitiful. I truly believe I've met every police officer within 6 blocks of our hotel as they stand in the middle of the streets "just in case", making them optimum information stands. We are worn out; our feet haven't hurt but they have been tired. I walked more than Bridget without complaining yesterday but she bounced back easier this morning.
Can't wait to share the pictures; my camcorder finally died today. The mouse also forgot to remind me to bring the charger for it!